If you are not familiar with the San Marco grape, it is certainly understandable. Until fairly recently I was unaware of it. San Marco has its origin in Italy, but it is now available much closer to home for many of you. It is a vinifera grape, red in color, resistant to mildew, and able to tolerate the cold. On Thursday I bought a couple of bottles at Bellview Winery in Landisville. They are the first winery to grow and commercially produce this wine in the United States. It was brought to the United States by the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association. Bellview planted their first vines of San Marco in 2016. The 2020 vintage is the first that was bottled and it is now for sale at Bellview Winery. San Marco obviously offers a lot of natural advantages over many other grapes.
But what does it taste like?
Here are a few of my notes:
- Dark, inky color
- Medium+ (despite a fairly low ABV)
- Soft mouthfeel
- Subtle black fruit
- Earthy notes, reminding me a little of a Pinot Noir, with a bit more body
- Good acidity-very food friendly
- Low ABV (11.4%)
- Soft tannins/smooth drinking
Any surprises? One crossed my mind before I poured my first glass: The ABV (alcohol by volume) was a bit lower than I expected to see (11.4%). Most wines produced in New Jersey these days have an ABV in the 12.5 – 13.5% range (with the occasional outlier on both ends). Styles of wines are obviously a factor. Rieslings tend to have a lower ABV, for instance. Wines produced in warmer areas (like California or South America) tend to be higher. I’ll have to pursue this question with Jim Quarella (owner) or Scott, his son. Scott was pretty excited how the San Marco progressed, especially considering that 2020 was a somewhat challenging year (due to high rainfall and an early spring frost) for growing grapes. I know I will be buying more of their San Marco in the near future.
At a recent trip to Bagliani’s Italian Market we picked up a beautiful pork roast that was already seasoned and oven-ready. I am always amazed how a small store like theirs can offer so many excellent foods in one spot. My favorites are their pastas and their cheeses. More recently we have tried their produce, their fresh fish, and their meats. They have all been excellent. Tonight, the pork is in the oven and I am thinking of which wine(s) to pair with this entree. With pork, my wife usually prefers white wine, while I may lean toward a Pinot Noir.
The Pork Loin
The pork loin came pre-seasoned with Italian seasoning (basil, oregano, parsley, and garlic) and was tender and juicy. The only thing missing was wine, which I quickly intervened to change that.
The Wines
- Beneduce Vineyards 2016 Centerfold Pinot Noir-One of my favorite Pinot Noirs anywhere, this gem was a great pairing. Loved the ripe black cherry notes.
- Autumn Lake Winery 2019 Albarino-One of my faves. Probably my favorite Albarino this year. I was lucky to grab their last one. Unfortunately, it was my last one.
- Bellview Winery 2020 San Marco (yes, I added this to the mix, last minute so I could test my food-friendly thesis). My thesis proved accurate, as the wine may even be better with food, thanks to its ample acidity.
- My wife and I had sips of all three wines with this dish (that also included roasted potatoes and broccoli rabe) and we decided you could not go wrong with any of them!
New Jersey Uncorked: A Snob-Free Taste of NJ Wine
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Coming Attractions
- Train Wreck Distillery
- Tone Wood Brewery
- Unionville Vineyards Updates
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Larry Coia says
So glad you have written about this great grape. San Marco was developed by Professor Marco Stefanini of the Foundation Edmund Mach in Italy. This wine made at Bellview Winery is the first commercial introduction of this grape variety in the US. The 2020 vintage was indeed a difficult year yet San Marco yielded better quality grapes for red wine than any other variety grown that year. The majority of the San Marco grapes used in this Bellview release were sourced from Coia Vineyards, which I own. The 2021 vintage will be even better and likely show the great character of wine that can be made on a regular basis. I hope you continue to follow and write about the progress this grape and the wine made from it makes in the US. I don’t own a winery and don’t expect people to write about me however I must point out that it is through my efforts in identifying the grape growing regions with characteristics similar to NJ, identifying Marco Stefanini as the brilliant and generous grape breeder of this grape, traveling to visit his region on multiple occasions to learn about the grape and successfully writing grant proposals to bring it to the US, have it grown at Rutgers, propagated at Double A Nurseries and distributed to growers in NJ this grape would not exist in the US.
David K Mullen says
Larry, Thank you so much for your comments, your corrections, and additions to my post. Your comments will be published in full for readers to get a more complete and accurate story of the San Marco grape. I will be sure to point readers to your comments in my next post (next Sunday). I will certainly continue to write about San Marco and other New Jersey grapes. Perhaps in the near future, I might meet you in person and get your perspective on New Jersey grapes and wines. Thanks again for your comments and my apologies for my ommissions.